“Dandyism is, above all, the burning desire to create a personal form of originality, within the external limits of social conventions.”
Oh, and how right was Charles Baudelaire when he inadvertently provides us today with the perfect description for the Rubinacci style.
A family business renowned for bespoke tailoring, the Rubinacci family passes on their craft and inspiration through generations of skilled tailors. From Gennaro Rubinacci, the founder of the workshop, and Mariano Rubinacci, the famous name of the brand, to Luca Rubinacci, the image of the modern dandy, and each artist who touches one of their notorious suits, they all pay tribute to the style of Napoli. You can see that in the passion they put into each stitch in their ateliers and literally see it in every Napoli-inspired print on scarves, handkerchiefs or the silk lining of a jacket. Neapolitan history or city landmarks are their muse.
I like to imagine that Clarke Gable’s closets were full of Rubinacci suits; properly tailored, accurately measured, refined and charming without trying too hard. Not to claim in any way that these hand-stitched masterpieces are out-dated in any way. Actually, the house seems to witness a paradox: on one side, there are the vintage clothes, the heritage tailoring and the careful fittings that no one seems to have time for these days, while on the other side, there’s the lively handkerchiefs, the knitted ties and the colourful prints that the youngest Rubinacci representative brings to the mix. But somehow, tradition and colourful fashion statements blend in to revive a brand that’s a symbol of Neapolitan style and tailoring.
After Luca’s Wardrobe, the successful debut wholesale line the house ever made, his reputation as a style icon and trendsetter became bigger than ever and his fame around the world is shared (together with fashion inspiration for the brave) on the Rubinacci Club blog. A promoter of the classic style with an amusing twist, the club is a way to share impressions, comment and advise rookie enthusiasts of the style. To be fair, everyone is a fashion rookie compared to him. Velvet trousers paired with a jeans shirt, handmade shoes, a vintage cardigan, a tweed jacket, a knitted tie, the unmistakable fedora and a printed scarf in shades of green – all made by Rubinacci; you get the feeling he should be a landmark of Napoli.
I have to admit I never dared to wear one of those eye-catching silk scarves I see in their shops. Partly because I didn’t know what to wear it with and partly because I don’t feel like I have the attitude to match. And that’s the secret. You can tell the young mister Rubinacci is brimming with confidence in a style that not many men could pull off. He’s an impeccable image of the tailoring house, whether it is by featuring in their promotional campaigns, sharing his daily style for the members of the Rubinacci Club or while on a yachting holiday to Rio. Forums might call him the devil of classic, but you can’t look at him without begin impressed by his confidence and the fresh style with which he promotes the family business.